Selasa, 30 Agustus 2011

Five Great Mountain Temples to Visit in Bali

by Barrie | August 18th, 2011  

The temples of Bali are a significant part of Balinese culture and life. To visit a temple during a festive period is a magical experience for the traveller. There are temples, big and small, scattered all across the island but I have always found the mountain temples to be the most beautiful and fascinating. Although temple settings vary from one to another, they are intriguing in their structure and component.

To the Balinese, mountain temples are highly sacred and as a traveller visiting one of these magnificent structures you can well understand their significance. The mountainous areas of Bali are quite simply, beautiful and stunning. The cool air and freshness of the surrounding flora only enhance any visit to a mountain temple in Bali. It is always important to observe entry requirements and naturally, be respectful and discreet when taking photographs especially during a festive period.

Pura Besakih: The most important temple in Bali. Known as the Mother Temple, Besakih sits on the western slop of Gunung Agung, the most holy place for Balinese Hindus. The temple is actually a complex made up of twenty-two temples that sit on parallel ridges. It has stepped terraces and flights of stairs which ascend to a number of courtyards and brick gateways that lead up to the main spire Meru structure, which is called Pura Penataran Agung. All this is aligned along a single axis and designed to lead the spiritual upward and closer to the mountain which is considered sacred.

Besakih is not just one temple, but a large complex of temples extending up the mountain, over a distance of 3km. The official opening hours are daily 8am-5pm. In respect to the culture wear a sarong and sash, available outside from the many vendors. Besakih temple’s history dates back to megalithic times, with the most ancient section Pura Batu Madeg (temple of the Standing Stone) built around a central rock.

Pura Ulun Danau Batur: Located next to the main road about 1km north of the village of Batur sits one of the most important temples in Bali. Pura Ulun Danu Batur is a kayangan jagat, or directional temple, and protects Bali from evil spirits from the north. Pura Ulun Danau Batur is dedicated to the Goddess Ida Betawi Dewi Ulun Danau, who provides water for the eastern part of Bali.

The temple is large in area and was originally located inside the crater. An eruption in 1924 forced the temple to be moved brick by brick and rebuilt on the crater rim. Along the northern edge is the multi-tiered meru and from here spectacular views are afforded of both Gunung Batur and Danau Batur. The temple is pre-Majapahit, meaning it was built before the arrival of the Majapahit Empire in Bali. In 1343 Bali was conquered by Gaja Mada who was the prime minister of the Majapahit Empire in East Java. Entrance to the temple is by donation and it is compulsory to wear a temple sash and sarong.

Pura Luhur Batakau: My favourite temple in the mountains. Beautiful to explore andheading inside the outer courtyard, you pass through a candi bentar (split gate). Balinese temples usually have either 2 or 3 courtyards (outer, middle, inner). The jaba (outer courtyard) is the realm of the people, where public dances will take place, the jaba tengah (middle courtyard), is a transition area between the realm of people and the realm of the Gods. Offerings are prepared here and sacred temple gear is stored here. The jeroan (inner courtyard) is the realm of the Gods is the focus of all ritual ceremonies.

All shrines are here including the padmasana in the far right corner. The padmasana is the raised throne where the supreme deity, Sanghyang Widi Wasa, sits, his back towards the most sacred mountain, Gunung Agung. The padmasana is supported on the back of a cosmic turtle, the Bedawang, which carries the universe on its back.Temple layouts are slightly different, due to the unique sites that each occupy. Puru Luhur Batukaru has a section off to the right towards a watergarden.

Pura Luhur Lempuyang: Located at the summit of Mount Bisbis, Pura Luhur Lempuyang is a magnificent temple and dedicated to Hyang Iswara. Strangely, there dated record when Pura Lempuyang was exactly was founded. There are numerous theories but it is assumed Pura Lempuyang existed from the 10th century AD during the reign of King Marakata in Bali.

The temple is frequented by many pilgrims as this is a place where sacred holy water is obtained. Be warned though, to reach the temple you will have to scale 1,700 steps and is not recommended in the rainy season due to the steps being slippy and dangerous. However, once at the temple you will find it worth the effort.

Pura Ulun Danau Bratan: Located 2 hours north of Kuta on the shores of Lake Bratan. The temple is one of Bali’s kayangan jagat or directional temples and protects Bali from evil spirits but for the visiting tourist or traveller, it is a surreal and pleasant place.

Pura Ulun Danau Bratan was built in 1633 by the raja of Mengwi on the western shore of Lake Bratan. Dewi Danu, who is the Goddess of water and fertility, is the honoured deity. The temple itself sits in well manicured gardens and attracts local and foreign visitors. The two obvious part of the temple are the structures set on land and the ones set on a point, extending into the lake.

The temple on the shore, Pura Teratai Bang has its own 7-tier meru dedicated to Brahma, the Creator. You will often see Balinese worshipers inside this temple, taking blessings and praying. Being such a sacred place, you are asked to stay outside the inner courtyard, but it is possible to look over the wall and get good photos.
There is also a traditional market place in the carpark selling the norm but, there is a plethora of fresh fruit on sale as well that is the best to buy whenever you visit this place.

The Balinese people rely on their rice harvest and the Goddess of water and fertility, Dewi Danu, who is the deity honoured here. The temple itself sits in well manicured gardens. The two obvious part of the temple are the structures set on land and the ones set on a point, extending into the lake. The temples grounds have an assortment of structures including the multi-tiered meru.


The Best of Bali According to Lonely Planet

by Barrie | August 17th, 2011  

There are people who swear by guide books and the value of their usage. Where in part I agree with the value of them in so much as things to see and do, most of the time you will find that a lot of things are out of date by the time the guide book is published. This mainly applies to hotels, restaurants, entrance fees to local attractions and the ilk. It’s a fact of life that hotel prices rise and restaurants shut and new ones open up.

The traveller’s bible is without a doubt Lonely Planet and so often you see travellers lugging these tomes around the streets or browsing through them at departure lounges in airports. What is interesting is Lonely Planet have just released a list of 25 things visitors to Bali and Lombok should do and see. Although it is a relatively short list there is so much more on the island.

Further Reading:

A Few Things to Do in Ubud
Exploring the Markets of Kuta & Denpasar
6 Offbeat Things to do in Bali
Places to Visit in Northern Bali
Things to Do in Central Bali
Things to See and do in East Bali
Things to Do in South Bali
Things to Do in West Bali
Things to Do in Nusa Dua


Two Upcoming Events in Bali

by Barrie | August 25th, 2011  

One thing I enjoy when travelling is attending festivals, carnivals or fairs. Not only are they a great way to experience the local culture and customs but there is always good food available! Besides, it’s a good way to meet people and interact with the residents. Bali, being tourism generated, has a lot of festivals throughout the year. A majority of these festivals are excellent for families on holiday in Bali and most are a definite must-see mainly because of what they have to offer.

There are two excellent upcoming events that truly are not to be missed. One is geared for those who are just lovers of literature and the other, for those who enjoy the botanical. One of the best events on the island of Bali has to be the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival. Now in its 8th year, the festival will be held in over 50 venues around Ubud. The theme for this year’s Festival is “Nandurin Karang Awak: Cultivate the Land Within”

The 8th International Ubud Writers & Readers Festival will take place from 5th – 9th October 2011. Since its beginning I have only managed to attend one of these great festivals and believe me it is well worth the visit. What I like about the festival is that is has so much to offer. There is a wide range of writing related workshops for adults such as travel writing, writing for the media, editing and publishing, memoir writing, short story writing and novel writing.

The second event also promises to be spectacular to visit and enjoy; especially if you are botanically minded. The Flower Fiesta – National Festival of Flowers and Plants will be held on Sanur’s Matahari Beach in Bali November 19-22, 2011. It certainly will prove to be well worth attending as 190 different regions from across Indonesia have already registered to participate in the fiesta.


Senin, 29 Agustus 2011

Top 5 Diving Spots in Bali

by Barrie | August 15th, 2011  

Bali is a scuba divers paradise and being one of the most beautiful islands in the world, it’s only natural that it attracts divers from around the globe. As an island for diving, Bali is never disappointing in what it has to offer the lover of the depth. It [Bali] has a rich and stunning marine biogeographic zone and underwater ecosystems with a colourful and diverse marine life.

What sets Bali apart from a lot of dive sites around the world is the variety of sites available. With a panoramic backdrop of volcanoes or rices paddies and stunning beaches, diving in Bali is a sheer oceanic pleasure for those wishing to imbibe in off-shore diving. Another special aspect of diving in Bali is the deep drop-offs and steep banks with picturesque coral ridges. Whether your preference is offshore diving or from a boat Bali has it all.

The Bali dive season runs all year round. Overall, the best diving conditions exist from April to December, with sunfish, sharks and other pelagic fish visiting from June to September. Here are top 5 spots to check out:

Tulamben: A small fishing village on the north-east coast of Bali, it is among the most popular dive sites on Bali since the wreck of the USS Liberty, a US Army Transport ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942 lies just off shore. During high-season, up to 100 divers descend to the wreck each day. The wreck lies in shallow water and is considered appropriate for divers of all certification levels. The ship rests in 30 meters of water, is roughly 25 meters from shore and can be reached with a short swim from the beach. The highest point of the wreck tops out about 5 meters from the surface. The best conditions for diving here are during October and November.

Padangbai & Candi Dasa: Padangbai is a small town in eastern Bali near Candidasa. It serves as a ferry port for travel to Lombok and the Gili Islands. Besides the beach near the ferry terminal there is a beach just to the north known locally as the Blue Lagoon and the especially nice Secret Beach just to the south of town. Many people go to Padangbai to scuba dive and the popular spots are Tepekong’s Canyon and Mimpang’s Shark Point. Night diving at the Blue Lagoon is also excellent.

Nusa Lembongan: Twelve kilometres of the Badung Strait separates Nusa Lembongan from Bali. The island is surrounded by coral reefs with white sand beaches and low limestone cliffs. Nusa Lembongan is separated from Nusa Cenignan by a shallow estuarine channel which is difficult to navigate at low tide. The waters here are cold but water clarity is surprisingly clear. Stunning coral reefs and an rich variety of marine life is to be found.

Amed: A perfect place for those wishing to get right away from it all. Amed is a very slow paced village where technology hasn’t caught up. There are a number of dive sites in the area that offer some nice drop offs with good coral and diver fish. Most of the diving is done out of local boats, however shore diving is available from Jemeluk Bay.

Menjangan Island: A small island, located 5 miles to the north-west of Bali. The island is considered to be an important part of the local tourism industry, due to the fact that its marine fauna incorporates one of the best-preserved coral reefs in the area. All scuba-diving shops arrange daily trips to the island. Visibility in these warm waters can be as much as 50 metres and has excellent wall diving. Take note that the island exists in a National Marine Park.


Road Tripping in Bali

by Barrie | August 13th, 2011  

I once spent a whole month on the road in Bali. When I finally returned to Kuta, my natural ‘high’ dissipated fast. Anyone who visits Bali and never ventures out of the tourist strip is not experiencing all that Bali has to offer. It doesn’t matter whether you hire a driver or get a form of transport of your own, or even do a hotel tour with a group of people, when you venture out on the open road then you can truly say ‘Yes, I have seen Bali’.

Although only a small island there are many roads you can travel that are away from the regular tourist routes taking you off the beaten track. Besides these adventurous sojourns there are a host of places where you can stop, take a breath and soak up the beauty before your eyes. Bali does have some stunning attractions.

However, if you do go with a tour group then enjoying the stunning panoramas Bali bestows upon you will leave you with endless memories. Being an island and surrounded by ocean it is only natural that road tripping the coastline will afford you many views that will leave you astounded.

The one thing you must do is prepare for your road trip and bring the necessities. All to often I have spoken to people who have had crappy road trips because they didn’t take the few things that make a road trip pleasurable.


Garuda Keeps Abreast of Attendants

by Barrie | August 26th, 2011  

If you like flying, internationally and domestically, and have an urge for a vocation change and like the idea of being a flight attendant then make sure you don’t have more tattoos than Amy Winehouse or your breasts have been modified to enhance their appeal, then applying for a job with Garuda Indonesia Airlines might not be the way to go.

I was mortified to read an article in the West Australian newspaper about the process that prospective flight attendants are put through just to gain clearance to be accepted at ‘flight attendant school’. According to the article, Would-be flight attendants in South Korea have accused Indonesia’s national airline of making them strip nearly naked and have their breasts handled in medical check-ups, provoking a storm of criticism.

The article goes on to say, Several dozen candidates for 18 highly-coveted female flight attendant positions with Garuda Indonesia were required to strip down to their panties to screen out those with tattoos or breast implants.

Seems like just an excuse for some people to enjoy a good perv on what are obviously genuine candidates and lovely girls.


Great Places for Photography in Bali

by Barrie | August 24th, 2011  

Bali naturally lends itself to photographers. Stunning panoramas at every turn, mountains and seascapes, the happiness of the Balinese people, colourful festivals and even the heady tourist areas all are perfect subjects for the budding or professional photographer. It makes no difference if you use a cheap compact camera or tote around a $5,000 DSLR with all the gear, the photographic opportunities on your visit to Bali are endless.

Over the decades of travel both on the island of Bali and other islands in the archipelago of Indonesia I have found some breathtaking subjects for photography and indeed, captured the images. People often ask me how many images would I take on a normal road trip and when I tell them around 400, they are astounded. It has always been my principal that taking photos of anything and everything [within reason] will, at the end of the day, surprise you.

Sure, you can look at the viewscreen on your digital camera but it will never give you an accurate idea of what the image is like. This you won’t know until you download the images to a computer. I have looked at images on the viewscreen and thought that the image was a load of crap. Some are, but others have surprised me. Even blurred shots can evoke a sense of place.

Here are just a few of the photographic opportunities on Bali:


Photo of the Day – Sangeh

by Barrie | August 28th, 2011  

The most popular place for tourists on Bali is, without a doubt, the Sangeh Monkey Forest. The forest at Sangeh has a mischievous clan of monkeys and now it will cost you a Rp20,000 entrance fee to be part of the thrill of being crawled over by simians. The monkeys here are friendly, to a point, downright thieves and can be aggressive especially if there is a baby monkey in the vicinity. It’s a cool place to go but has more to offer than just monkeys. Inside is a temple.

Being set within a large growth of nutmeg (pala) trees, Pura Bukit Sari was built in the 17th century as a meditation temple by the son of the King of Mengwi but now it is an irrigation or subak temple. It is definitely an eerie temple and especially at sunrise when the monkeys come down to feed as the streaks of early morning light filter through the trees canopy.

The grey-stone and weather-beaten temple is in a square compound with stone-carved reliefs and a thatched meru. Although not as appealing as many of the temples in Bali are, it is simply constructed and is a fine example of a subak temple and is important to the area.


The W Retreat and Spa Bali – Seminyak

by Barrie | August 13th, 2011  

One of the latest additions to the Seminyak hotel family just happens to be opulent to the extreme. The W Retreat and Spa Bali is located on Jalan Petitenget and overlooks the ocean but it’s the hotel’s ambience and décor that has everyone talking about this new addition. If a hotel can boast having eco-merit for building on an existing resort and serve only imported bottled water then you can guarantee the price tag per night to stay there is beyond budget travellers.

I read about this hotel in the Age newspaper this morning and was totally blown away with the description of the décor. According to the article, Finished in silver and granite, with splashes of fuchsia, lilac and gold, the lobby looks more like a space-age airport terminal than a beach resort, and, The lower-category rooms fan out above the lobby, each with views over the multi-level WET area and Indian Ocean from their balconies. The more expensive rooms are in a different corner of the property; these gated villas have a private pool and ample living space.

None are cheap; the base category rooms cost from $US423.50 ($397.40) for a garden view without breakfast (add $US60 for this), jumping to $US6100 for the two-bedroom “Extreme Wow” suite.


Jumat, 12 Agustus 2011

Street Marching Competition in Bali

by Barrie | July 29th, 2011  

If you travel throughout the archipelago of Indonesia you will find that in the major cities there are often street marches. These come with the bands, finery and all the razzamatazz associated with a good parade. Locals flock to the side of the roads to see the various groups parade past in all their colour and pageantry.

On September 6th Bali will be having a street parade to commemorate the 105th anniversary of the Badung Puputan according to an article I read today. For those not familiar with Puputan, between 1894 and 1908, hundreds of Balinese, led by their kings in Bali and Lombok, died in the face of advancing Dutch colonial forces.

According to the article, Marching units comprised of male and female groups of marchers drawn from the Armed Forces, youth organizations, university students, civil defense units, public servants, private sector employees, and high schools student are welcome to form marching teams to compete. A total of Rp. 375 million (US$8,88) in prizes will be awarded together with ceremonial sword trophies (“Keris Puputan”) to the best male and female marching units.

Where to see the March: It will start on September 6th at Candi Margarana in Tabanan and finishes at the Lapangan Badung in Denpaar.


Kamis, 11 Agustus 2011

Travel Itineraries for Bali

by Barrie | August 5th, 2011  

Believe it or not but, a lot of people who travel to Bali seldom get out of the touristy areas and travel up country to see and admire the beauty and culture that Bali has to offer. Choosing a day trip or half-day trip depends mainly on your likes and dislikes and what you want to see. Some people loathe the idea of trekking from temple to temple. Bali is more than temples.

Most hotels can organise day trips for their guests and have their own driver to take you from place to place on these set itineraries. The bemo touts on the streets of the tourist areas also have their set itineraries for trips up country as do the smaller travel agencies you will see as you walk around the tourist areas. All costs are different.

Hotels are a set price per day trip as do a majority of the travel agencies. However, the bemo touts are probably the best bet but there are a few things you should know. Firstly, ensure the driver is reliable and this is unfortunately an assumption on your part and make sure the vehicle is in good shape. Secondly, set the price [don’t forget to bargain!] and make sure that price includes all fuel. Thirdly, ensure the driver will take you to where you want to go with no time restrictions.

The variation in itineraries the hotels and travel agencies offer varies very little but cover some interesting places. Most are ideal for first-time travellers or those wishing to see that little bit more of the island. Here are a few of the set itineraries:

Batuan (wood carving) – Batubulan (stone carving) – Celuk (silver) – Sukawati (makets) – Ubud – Kintamani (volcano)

Mengwi (royal temple) – Sangeh (monkey forest) – Alas Kedaton (monkey forest) – Tabanan – Tanah Lot (sunset over temple)

Candikuning (local markets) – Bedugul (Danau Bratan) – Twin Lakes (Buyan and Tamblingan)

Kerth Gosa (royal courts of justice) – Goa Lawah (bat temple) – Besakih (mother temple – Bangli (pura kehen)

Although these are brief tours in content, when you travel with a driver that you have hired then you can add as many places as you want; within reason of course. However, if you have a desire for a bit of adventure then get off the beaten track when travelling in Bali. Have a look at the series of articles here.


Water Crisis in Bali?

by Barrie | August 5th, 2011  

When I first started travelling to Bali in the 70’s, tourism was a low number factor but, as the years passed the increase in tourism and people numbers rose dramatically. As we all know, Bali is only a small island and the constant draw of water to be used in the many hotels eventually would have its impact on the water table. I remember an article written in the Jakarta Post by a professor at Udayana University in Bali where he stated Bali would run out of drinking water by 2010.

He was not far wrong in his prediction and now, according to an article I was reading the other day, suitable investors are being sought to help convert sea water into potable water on a commercial quantity basis. In other words, build desalination plants across the island.

I was surprised to read in the article that ‘The current demand for clean water by a five star hotels in Bal has hit an average of 50,000 liters per day. Meanwhile, the demand for water at the Ngurah Rai International Airport is put at 2 million liters per day. Given this high rate of water consumption in Bali and the current fresh water deficit on the island, Bali is facing a severe water crisis in the coming five years’

Hopefully when these new desalination plants are built in Sanur and Nusa Dua then Bali will continue as a paradise island attracting more and more tourists. Agriculture has been one sector of Balinese life that has been affected by this mass tourism use of water.


Photo of the Day: Pura Batu Bolong, Lombok

by Barrie | July 23rd, 2011  

As most of you know I have visited just about every temple on the island of Bali and during my recent visit to Lombok, I was interested to note the comparison between the temples of Bali and that of Lombok. The one temple I found fascinating was Pura Batu Bolong, located just south of Senggigi Beach in West Lombok.

It is necessary to wear a temple sash before entering the temple and these are available at the entrance and a small donation is welcome. Pura Batu Bolong is a great temple to visit during the Hindu festival times and also on the nights of the full and dark moons when colourful ceremonies are held.

This quaint and peaceful temple is perched on a rocky outcrop facing Bali. It was quite interesting to note that the temple structure in Lombok is somewhat different to those of Bali. The striking feature of this temple is the natural carved hole near the bottom of the temple; thus the name Batu Bolong – Hole in the rock.

It is believed that virgins were once sacrificed to the sea from the highest point of the temple’s outcrop. As you approach the ‘hole in the rock’, the surging sea lunges through and the path does get quite slippy. Once you reach the base of the temple it is a 16 step climb to the highest point. Here, spectacular views are afforded across the Lombok Straits to Bali.


Photo of the Day – Kebun Raya Eka Karya Bali

by Barrie | July 30th, 2011  

One of my favourite paces to spend a morning is located in the small village of Candikuning not far from Danau Bratan. The awesome Bali Botanical Gardens known as Kebun Raya Eka Karya Bali. It is easy to find and is only a short walk from the nearby Bukit Mungsu Markets. You really cannot miss the entrance as you will see a giant corn-on-the-cob statue marking the way.

The gardens have over 800 different species of trees from around the world. Also, there are over 400 species of Orchids to be found and many in full bloom. Walking through this fairytale square kilometre is amazing. If you want you can drive through the park on the well-paved roads but to truly enjoy the beauty of these fabulous gardens, I would suggest parking and strolling around.

The park is also a great place for birdwatchers as many species are found here. Although only a square kilometre in area I estimate you would need three days to explore this Botanist’s utopia.