The Ancient Lontar Scripts of Bali are Going Digital

by Barrie | January 30th, 2011   Tweet

Some of you reading this might not realise what a lontar is or is importance in the ancient Balinese culture. Basically, a lontar is written history and Bali has a unique way of preserving it. These manuscripts are writings from hundreds of years ago that are inscribed on the leaves of the lontar palm (punyan entel).

The writing surface is prepared by soaking the leaves in water for days to remove the chlorophyll. The leaf is then brushed to remove any small debris of insects and then boiled with a herbal potion to add flexibility and durability to the leaf.

To stop the leaves getting wrinkled the drying process is very slow. The leaves are then pressed for 10 days to get as flat a surface as possible. They are then cut into strips that are 35-40cm long and 3-4cm wide. The final phase of the leaf preparation involves pressing the cut leaves again and colouring the edges with a dye called kincu to keep insects away. After another 6 months the leaves are ready for engraving.

The engraving is a meticulous process that is achieved with a sharp iron tool. Carbon from a lamp is then rubbed into the engraving to give it colour. Ensuring the survival of the lontar manuscripts is a continual process as they only last for a maximum of about 100 years. The Bali Aga village of Tenganan specializes in lontar engravings.

There was an interesting article in the Jakarta Post (2011/01/29) regarding lontar manuscripts. According to the article: The repaired lontar manuscripts, totaling 3,000 pieces stored at the agency’s library, are to be scanned and uploaded into a digital library, making them accessible to any reader across the world when the project is complete.

If you are interested in the ancient culture of Bali written on lontar then Singaraja is the place to visit. The Gedong Kirtya is the only museum of lontar manuscripts in the world and houses 3,000 or more separate pieces written in Old Javanese, Balinese and Indonesia, covering subjects such as folk history, black magic and astrology.

Gedong Kirtya also houses a set of inscribed bronze plates from the 10th century. These are called prasasti and are considered to be the oldest written records in Bali.

Image Courtesy: balifantastic.com

Chinese New Year in Bali

by Barrie | February 1st, 2011   Tweet

Today is Chinese New Year, or Imlek, throughout Indonesia and the world. The Chinese communities in the major cities throughout Indonesia, Jakarta, Semarang, Surabaya, Bandung and Yogyakarta, will be holding street parades featuring Barong Sai and many more puppets dancing in the streets and in klentengs (Chinese temples).

Not many visitors to Bali know of the existence of a Chinese temple in Kuta. In fact, when you leave Bali to head to the airport, you travel right past it and it is easily unnoticed. Down a quiet alleyway off Jalan Bakungsari and fronting the very busy Jalan Singo Sari is located the only Bhuddist temple in the Kuta area.

There are several Chinese temples in Bali and a couple of Klentengs (Chinese temples) in Denpasar but they are smaller whereas the Vihara Dharmayana on Jalan Tanjung Mekar is a relatively large temple and patronised by the Chinese community in Kuta. Anybody can enter the temple, look around and take photographs (please do it discreetly so as not to disturb those praying). There are several Bhuddist statues and the whole temple is decorated in the lucky Chinese colour of red.

Vihara Dharmayana during the week-long festival is spectacular with Barongsai dance and those colourful masks. Red lanterns are strung from the buildings in the temple compound and there is a steady stream of devotees praying and paying homage to Bhudda. It is also a time of feasting and the best time during the celebratory week is at night when all the delicious food is brought out for all to share. If you visit the temple then please leave a small donation as it helps with the upkeep of the temple.

To all my Chinese friends in Indonesia, I would like to express…

‘SELEMAT TAHUN BARU CINA’

‘GONG XI FAT CAI’

Will Lombok be the ‘New Bali’?

by Barrie | January 26th, 2011   Tweet

Lombok has always lagged behind Bali in regards to tourism. These days, Lombok is used as a stepping stone to the nearby Gili Islands. This doesn’t mean that there is nothing to do on the island.

On the contrary, Lombok is an island of stunning palm-fringed, white sand beaches and the interior of the island has majestic panoramas overlooked by Gunung Rinjani. Add to that the mystical Sasak culture and you have a perfect island holiday. There are a multitude of five star resorts and a variety of other accommodation to suit all budgets.

But, will it become the ‘new Bali’? There is no doubt that Bali is getting a bit worn around the edges and tourists are looking for other destinations. Nothing could be better than Bali’s sister island; Lombok. All pointers to this happening are promising. A new international airport is expected to open later this year, and, also the big investments from the Middle-East.

In an article appearing in the newspaper WAToday, Qatar’s sovereign wealth fund is leading a bidding race to develop an unspoilt southern coastline of white sand into a world class resort and luxury residential community. I was recently in Lombok and visited this area around Kuta and yes, it is pristine. The whole idea of this development will be eco-based tourism. This alone will surely attract many visitors. After all, it’s only a half hour flight from Denpasar.

Lombok’s culture is not as obviously rich as Bali’s, but taking a tough hike up an active volcano, Mount Rinjani, or snorkelling in pristine waters will seem appealing to tourists and travellers alike.

What to See in Ubud: The Herons of Petulu

by Barrie | January 26th, 2011   Tweet

Ubud will always be a special place in Bali for those wishing to escape the rat-race of the touristy areas of Kuta. In one of the most scenic areas on the island and directly north-east of Ubud in Central Bali is located the village of Petulu; famed for its artists, dancers and carvers of wood and stone. But that is not only what the village is renowned for. It is also a bird sanctuary and home to the famous Javan Pond Heron and Plumed Egrets.

Many of you who have explored the region around Ubud will know of this beautiful, scenic and quiet area. It is the Herons coming home to roost at dusk that is spectacular and so if you can time your visit to Petulu around 5pm in the afternoon. Massive flocks of these Herons seem to light the sky pure white as they arrive and village tradition dictates that these Herons may not be disturbed during their roosting.

No one really knows why the Herons, who first began roosting there in 1966, chose Petulu as their nesting site. Ask any of the elders in the village and they will tell you that the birds are in fact reincarnations of the tens of thousands of men and women who died during the civil unrest throughout Bali in 1966. It is a well known fact that many of those Balinese who died were laid to rest near the roosting grounds.

When the birds started arriving initially, it was only previous to that an elaborate sacrificial ceremony was held for protection and blessings after thousands of communists were butchered. Interestingly, twice a year on Saniscara Kliwon Landep the residents of Petulu hold a special ceremony for the White Herons.

The Traditional Weaving of Sukarara in Lombok

by Barrie | January 24th, 2011   Tweet

Lombok has so much to offer travellers and any visitor to the island will be first struck by the awesome and natural beauty of the environment. But, the island has so much more and their culture and handicrafts are amazing. When I last visited there I was particularly interested in the textiles woven using traditional looms.

Located in the centre of the island and only a short drive from the city of Mataram in the north-west of the island is a delightful but small village called Sukarara. A village that has some incredible views of the mountains and volcanoes of the north and all its buildings are traditionally laid adding to the experience.

The main focus of the village is in the production of fabrics and cloth used for a variety of things including clothing and other decorative items. In Sukarara are some of the most popular and aesthetically pleasing traditional designs to be found in the archipelago of Indonesia.

The useful force of earthy colours coupled with the traditional eastern patterns are entrancing in their design. Here one can witness the production of these amazing materials from the thread woven on looms. The villagers have retained the traditional customs and rituals, revered and practiced in Lombok over the centuries. The weaving community is an amazing experience and at Sukarara there are many workshops selling the goods woven in the village.

I visited the workshop of Panji Sari and the selection of woven cloth in a variety of colours was outstanding. Prices for these handmade textiles vary with some pieces fetching into the millions of Rupiah. Be prepared to bargain the price and you could find yourself with a beautiful hand-woven treasure. When visiting Lombok, Sukarara is the place to buy the traditional woven cloth.

Staying Healthy in Bali and Vaccinations

by Barrie | January 21st, 2011   Tweet

In light of the recent disease outbreaks in Bali including those of Dengue Fever, the Swine Flu and of late, Legionnaires Disease it seemed like a good idea to discuss health and travel. It’s important to note that when travelling anywhere in the tropics – whether it be only Bali or the other islands in the archipelago of Indonesia – be securely vaccinated. This is only common sense.

However, if you are heading over to Bali then I strongly urge you to at least have the Hepatitis A and B vaccinations. You do not want to end up with a bad case of the dreaded Bali Belly! These most prominent vaccinations are truly imperative and especially if travelling with children.

The list is simple – Hepatitis A and B, Tetanus, Cholera and Typhoid. If you are worried about Japanese Encephalitis and Meningitis then by all means be covered but the former in reality is not needed for Bali and is a very painful vaccine procedure.

Reducing the risk of contracting any infections in Bali is simple. Before travelling to Bali consult your doctor. Find out what vaccinations are required and if any existing health concerns might prevent you from travelling. Make sure you carry a copy of your health record and prescription, if there are ongoing health issues that may require treatment while in Bali.

Drinking water: Tap water is unsafe to drink in Bali. Although the quality of water throughout the island varies greatly, some coming piped, some from a well, one should always assume it is unsafe to drink without boiling. People living in Bali shower with the local water, brushing teeth etc. with no ill effects, still your drinking water should be bottled water.

Water in warungs and restaurants is bottled water and food is washed in bottled water. The old claim that salad items should be avoided in Bali, because vegetables were washed in tap water is no longer true. Enjoy a great salad in Bali. Ice in drinks is generally okay, but you may want to decline ice in non-tourist areas.

Bali Belly / Diarrhea: A dose of the runs can knock the wind out of your trip to Bali. A simple way to deal with it is to restrict yourself to extremely simple food for 3 days, which means bread, plain rice, potatoes, plain meat with no sauce and NO green vegetables. You’d be amazed at how a vicious case of diarrhea can disappear under that regime. Diarrhea will deplete your body of fluid, which when combined with hot humid weather will compound your misery. Drink electrolyte drinks such as Pocari Sweat (blue can with white strip) available any where in Bali.

Cuts & Scrapes: Tiny cuts can develop into tropical ulcers under hot humid conditions. A cut measuring 2mm across can be 5cm in diameter within a week and 5mm deep. Wash out any cuts you get and apply Betadine, giving the cut plenty of air to dry.

First aid kit: Don’t expect locals to have or know how to use a first aid kit. Carry your own first aid travel kit and learn how to use it.

Here is a look at the possible diseases you can contract in Bali and how to recognize them.

Hepatitis: There are several types, but all leave the patient with a yellowing of the skin and eyes. This is combined with extreme tiredness, diarrhea and fever. This is a common disease in this part of the world and the effects may last several months. The 2 main kinds of Hepatitis are A & B.

Hepatitis A is generally transmitted by viruses in food, water and human saliva. Hepatitis B is transmitted by viruses in human sexual interaction, contaminated blood or syringes. Vaccines offer a degree of protection and the treatment for hepatitis includes avoiding alcohol.

Typhoid: Typhoid is one of the common vaccinations for Asia. The disease is transmitted by contaminated food or water. Symptoms are intense fever, headaches, abdominal pains, diarrhea and red spots on the body. Very similar symptoms to a type of malaria, with the exact same cycle of fever/chills.

Cholera: Transmitted by contaminated food and water. Symptoms include cramps, low energy, runny diarrhea and vomiting. This disease can quickly leave you dehydrated. In its most severe forms, cholera is one of the most rapidly fatal illnesses known: A healthy person may become hypotensive within an hour of the onset of symptoms and may die within 2-3 hours if no treatment is provided. Vaccinations are not that effective against Cholera.

Tetanus: Transmitted through contact via open wounds. The tetanus booster shot is a very common one to get for long tern travellers, just in case of an accident. Generalized tetanus is the most common type of tetanus, representing about 80% of cases. The generalized form usually presents with a descending pattern. The first sign is trismus or lockjaw, followed by stiffness of the neck, difficulty in swallowing, and rigidity of pectoral and calf muscles. Other symptoms include elevated temperature, sweating, elevated blood pressure, and episodic rapid heart rate. Spasms may occur frequently and last for several minutes. Spasms continue for 3–4 weeks and complete recovery may take months

Japanese Encephalitis: Transmitted by virus carried by mosquitoes. Most common in rural areas and carried by birds and other animals. Causes swelling of the brain which can be fatal. Japanese encephalitis has an incubation period of 5 to 15 days and the vast majority of infections are asymptomatic: only 1 in 250 infections develop into encephalitis. Severe rigors mark the onset of this disease in humans. Fever, headache and malaise are other non-specific symptoms of this disease which may last for a period of between 1 and 6 days.

Signs which develop during the acute encephalitic stage include neck rigidity, cachexia, hemiparesis, convulsions and a raised body temperature between 38 and 41 degrees Celsius. Mental retardation developed from this disease usually leads to coma. Mortality of this disease varies but is generally much higher in children.

Rabies: Very common disease in Asia, spread through the saliva of dogs, cats and monkeys, which pierce your skin. It is possible to get pre-departure shots for rabies, most people don’t bother. If you suspect the animal that bit you might have rabies consult a doctor for a series of shots. Any mammal may become infected with the rabies virus and develop symptoms, including humans.

Most animals can be infected by the virus and can transmit the disease to humans. Infected bats, monkeys, chickens, cattle, dogs or cats provide the greatest risk to humans. After a typical human infection by bite, the virus directly or indirectly enters the peripheral nervous system. It then travels along the nerves towards the central nervous system. During this phase, the virus cannot be easily detected within the host, and vaccination may still confer cell-mediated immunity to prevent symptomatic rabies. Once the virus reaches the brain, it rapidly causes encephalitis and symptoms appear.

Malaria: Caused by a parasite in the saliva of mosquitoes. Can be fatal. Symptoms are fever /shivering, headaches. Cycles of the symptoms come and go with periods of feeling fine. Each time the symptoms get worse, until the brain overheats. Malaria medication is available to take while on your trip and after you return home. Discuss the effectiveness of the various options with your doctor.

Among other ways of preventing malaria are:

Covering up with long pants and long sleeves at dawn/dusk.
Burning a mosquito coil to rid your room of mosquitoes before sleeping.
Using insect repellent at dawn/dusk sleeping under a mosquito net
Sleep with a strong fan on you
Avoiding black clothes
Sleep in an AC room and keep the doors and windows shut during the day

Dengue Fever: Transmitted by a virus carried by mosquitoes. This mosquito tends to attack during the day and is slightly larger than the malaria carrying variety. In Bali this mosquito likes to hide inside the petals of a certain yellow flower. Symptoms include headaches, fever, joint and muscle pain. The classic dengue fever lasts about six to seven days, with a smaller peak of fever at the trailing end of the fever (the so-called “biphasic pattern”).The only cure is rest and hydration. There are no drugs that will cure dengue but it is manageable.

The climate in Bali is one that is a natural breeding ground for germs. Add to that some of the local methods of washing and cooking and its no wonder people gets sick occasionally. The local method of washing one’s rear after going to the bathroom involves scooping water out of a mandi (brick reservoir of still water) and splashing over oneself with a plastic scoop. A trip to an airport bathroom, will reveal a floor covered in water, which has rebounded of someone else. Same thing for the toilet seat and people’s private bathrooms. A small house used by many people, will have micro-particles floating around on the bathroom floor.

Showering is a variation of the same, with scoops of water being tipped over the participant, ending up all over the bathroom. Fortunately for most visitors a shared bathroom will never be necessary during a trip to Bali and most restaurants have western standards.

So, it is vital to be of reasonable heath before travelling to Bali. People with low immune systems are more prevalent to contracting a disease. And most importantly: HAVE TRAVEL INSURANCE!

Pura Besakih to Clean Up its Image

by Barrie | January 19th, 2011   Tweet

It has been some time since I last visited the Mother Temple of Bali; Pura Besakih. I suppose it was all the hassling touts and sellers that were a massive put-off, but nonetheless, it is one of those sacred sights in Bali that is a must-see for every tourist to Bali.

The other problem that disgusted me was back in the late ‘80’s when wandering through the complex I came across some graffiti scrawled on one of the monuments by some peabrain with absolutely no respect for Balinese culture and religion as welll as the holiness of this magnificent structure.

Besakih temple is the most important temple in Bali. Known as the Mother Temple, Besakih sits on the western slop of Gunung Agung, the most holy place for Balinese Hindus. The temple is actually a complex made up of twenty-two temples that sit on parallel ridges. It has stepped terraces and flights of stairs which ascend to a number of courtyards and brick gateways that lead up to the main spire Meru structure, which is called Pura Penataran Agung. All this is aligned along a single axis and designed to lead the spiritual upward and closer to the mountain which is considered sacred.

I was reading an interesting article in the Bali Discovery newsletter this morning regarding the clean-up of the temples’ image. According to the article: While Besakih remains a major tourist and spiritual destination on the island of Bali, a Karangasem Regency religious leader recently expressed to Bisnis Bali his view that all parties involved with the sacred temple, both religious devotees and tourist visitors, need to achieve a shared view of the site and the important role it plays in the island’s cultural and religious life. He said that guides leading people through the complex must always respect the sacred nature of the Temple, obey all rules already in place and not defraud or coerce those visiting the site.

After reading the entire article it has definitely inspired me to return once more and experience the essence of beauty and holiness that the temple is known for. I just hope they rein-in those annoying touts and sellers.